BHPian lemedico <\/strong>recently shared this with other enthusiasts.<\/p>\nMy 2021 Tiago AMT one morning gave me a massive sulk. I fired her up and after slotting into Drive, the wheel wouldn’t turn as it did. It was ancient truck-like and impossible to even drive up to my mechanic’s garage.<\/p>\n
I have been an avid DIYer and I got around to fixing it immediately. One thing was for sure, there were no rat bites. I had already rummaged around the cabin and engine compartment to look for obvious signs of rodents.<\/p>\n
There weren’t any fault codes or warning lamps on my OBD2 scanner or instrument console respectively. This was very weird indeed.<\/p>\n
A few youtube video searches gave me diagnoses ranging from oil leak, and sensor failure to steering rack replacement and whatnot.<\/p>\n
A few months ago, I created a rear 12v power socket for this car.<\/p>\n
I had then fuse tapped the EPAS {electronic power steering assist} fuse for the wiring. Just last night, I had used my tyre inflator to top up air and I suspected maybe that did some damage.<\/p>\n
I opened up the cabin fuse compartment, whacked out the fuse tap and voila, there was a blown EPAS 5A fuse! I was very relieved to see the damage was minor and not youtube grade destructive.<\/p>\n
There are spare fuses in the engine fuse compartment. I simply swapped it out and the job was done. Lesson learnt, not to use such high voltage accessories in the rear socket.<\/p>\n
Have a look at this video I recorded for your better understanding of the task<\/p>\n
Here’s what BHPian Reinhard <\/strong>had to say on the matter:<\/p>\n\nThis is a bit odd. If there was extra current drawn by the accessory socket – the fuse for the accessory should have blown in the tap (i.e. the one on top), not the EPAS fuse. I wonder why that happened. Was this the first time that you used that newly added socket? I wonder in case there was a short somewhere in the tap already.<\/p>\n
Also – if the accessories that you intend to connect to that socket are powerful enough to draw more than 5Amp – you should ideally use a different primary fuse socket, that supports 10 or 15 Amp on Ignition mode. Not a 5 Ampere fuse. Although this is more theoretical and chance of the wiring for the EPAS fuse circuit being different than the others are less – its a chance that car makers try to save every possible cent.<\/p>\n
Its not the voltage – voltage for any car accessory will typically be 12V not more. Its the power and current draw that matters. Your accessory pulled more than 5 Amp current. (Still I don’t see why it blew a fuse that is for something else).<\/p>\n
I’d suggest keep an eye, and in fact keep a spare fuse added back in your car. If the EPAS fuse blows again – go straight to the ASC (after removing that fuse tap) – and get it checked. I think the EPAS-Immobilizer cabin fuse is shared. There might be an actual malfunction in those circuits that could have caused the blow-out, if not a short circuit earlier.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n
Read BHPian comments for more insights and information. <\/p>\n
Source: Read Full Article<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"I was very relieved to see the damage was minor and not youtube grade destructive. BHPian lemedico recently shared this<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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