An electric vehicle with a range of 140 km for my daily city commute seemed to sound interesting all of a sudden.
BHPian 123.rishabh recently shared this with other enthusiasts.
For a long time I wanted to get my hands on an Electric Vehicle, but due to lack of infrastructure & high purchase costs could never justify buying one of them.
After selling off my 2009 Jazz, I realized that one small beater car is required for daily household running. My office is < 4 km from my home & none of my vehicles (Endeavour 3.2 & A4 TDI) would even reach their running temp in this short run. Looked at many EV options & the Nexon EV felt like the most practical one, still, I had many questions in mind:
- Could I take it on highways?
- Do I need to take it on highways when I have other vehicles for that purpose
- Will the real-world range of ~250km be sufficient
- Do I even need that much range for a daily commute?
Despite having multiple cars, one still tries to find an allrounder in every car he owns & the same was my case with the new EV.
After Test driving Kona, ZS, & Nexon, one fine day I scheduled the test drive of the newly launched Tigor EV. The car was supposed to come in the evening & before that, I received a call from a friend who told me about the stock clearance being done by Mahindra for the E Verito models.
Initially, I was repulsive about going in for a dated electric model but once he told me the lucrative deal which was around a 35% discount, that got the ball rolling.
A daily driving EV with an ARAI Range of 181 Km (Actual 140 Km) started to sound sufficient all of a sudden. I immediately took the test drive in the evening & found the following pros & cons with the car
- Excellent Ride quality with magic carpet-like smoothness soaking up all bumps (Way more superior than the Tigor, Nexon, Kona & ZS EV)
- Spacious & comfortable wide cabin
- Robust build quality (Thanks to the Renault/Dacia Origins)
- F Mode in the gearbox helps to enhance range despite keeping a heavy foot on the throttle
- B Mode helps in quick overtaking
- Dated design both inside out
- Low Power Output compared to modern EVs (41 PS & 91Nm)
- Power consuming Hydraulic Steering (I personally don’t mind it but an EPS is better for a low-speed city car)
- 86 Kmph Top Speed
- Taxi Image
After the test drive, I immediately headed to the nearest Mahindra service centre who work on EVs & spoke to the Service advisors on the pros & cons in terms of maintenance
- Simple EV hardware (Air-cooled batteries vs Liquid Chiller Cooling in modern EVs)
- Low Battery Replacement cost (Vs Modern EVs)
- Primary battery consists of 23 modules which can be replaced individually
- Service interval of 20,000 Km or 2 years whichever is earlier at an approximate 5000 Rupees
- Car cannot be towed using a tow strap for long distances in case of a battery drain as it damages the motor
- No option of Portable RSA charging in case of low battery (Hyundai has Vehicle 2 Vehicle charging facility for Kona customers)
- The car comes with one GBT type fast charging port on the front left fender & a Type 2 slow charging port on the existing fuel door area on the rear right side.
After understanding everything I made my decision of buying the vehicle & went to the showroom to check out the cars available. By the time we reached, the D6 (Top Trim) models were sold out & only the D2 models were remaining. The difference between these 2 ways is that the D2 missed on:
- Driver Airbag
- Electrically adjustable ORVM
- Alloy Wheels
- 2 Din Audio System
- Keyless Entry
in comparison to the D6 trims which were sold out.
There were only 2 cars left & I had to decide quickly. I talked with a few friends & finally booked the car on the spot.
Went to take the delivery of the car on the next day & the car was ready with 90% charge. Did the mandatory PDI of the vehicle, understood the details of the charger installation and got it home,
Ultra-Wide Rear Seats
Work Done post-purchase:
Drove the car around for a few days & decided to get a few basic things done on it:
The first one was a basic ICE system. It came with a 2 din slot & I wanted to fit a basic system in order to keep the least power drain. I have no knowledge about ICE, so took a friend along to a shop & we started looking at different models. In the end, we decided on the 6.75 Inch Blaupunkt New York 750 which was the only system to offer wireless android auto & CarPlay under 7 inches (Definitely not a basic unit).
In terms of speakers, we got a basic 4 speaker system with Blaupunkt Components in the front & Coaxials on the rear parcel shelf.
Also fitted a reverse cam as this car does not have any reverse aid
The second thing I wanted to check was the underbody & see the protection. After seeing the TBHP review of the New Tigor EV and its underbody without any protection I was really worried.
Took the car to a friends workshop, lifted it up & I was pleasantly surprised by seeing not 1 but 4 heavy-duty metal protection plates (2 under the battery pack, 1 covering the HT Wiring & 1 Metallic shield under the motor same as the engine shield in ICE Cars).
On seeing this I thought of also getting an underbody antirust coating done. Masked the Orange HT wires, Used Bardahl Rust Coat for the same & was happy with the results
Few pics of the car after the work was completed
Now coming to the charging part. This car comes with a 3Kw Portable wall-mountable charger with an Industrial Socket on the inlet side & Type 2 on the outlet socket. It runs on a single-phase & I was specifically told by the sales advisor that the warranty won’t be valid on the charger in case one plugs it into a 3 phase outlet & spoils it.
This was the first EV in my society so it came with its own set of challenges which are as follows:
So I had my list prepared & after confirmation of the brands got the following stuff:
- 20 Meters 4 Gauge 3 Core Wire
- Digital Electricity Meter
- 2 x 16A & 32A DP MCB units
- Industrial Socket with box (Single Phase)
- Flexible PVC Pipes for Clean mounting.
Car loaded with all the stuff
Now coming to the driving part:
I have covered 500 km in the car & am mostly driving with a mix of Boost & Forward modes with AC on always & am getting 85 – 100 Kms on using 85% of the battery
The car switches on the AC in order to cool its batteries after trips for around a min which eats up batteries in short trips. I personally feel that this car can do more km if driven without a break. I usually drive it for 5 -8 km in one go & have done a run of 24 km max at a stretch. Plan to test its range on an open road soon.
You never feel less power & 41 BHP of this car feels no less than 100 BHP of my FIAT Petra 1.6 at least under 60km/h.
Have stalled the car once and that was completely my fault. The car had a 13% battery & was already running in Economy mode when we decided to take it for fitting the ICE system which took 3 hours and they had also switched on the rear defogger by mistake. When we started back the battery rapidly dropped in a span of 3 km from 12% to 8% and the car switched to Limp mode & had to tow it back home from there.
Thankfully in limp mode the steering & brakes of the car are active. Also, it was only 2 km from my place so I planned to tow it with a friends car or else it is advised to only use a flatbed to avoid damage to the motor of the car (Need to educate myself on this)
Things to do next:
Will keep updating this thread!
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